I Cant Get My 318 to Run Again Written By McCracken Forearth Tuesday, April 5, 2022 Add Comment Edit 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: four Joined: April 2, 2010 Local Time: 5:29 PM The 318 in my 72 dart ran fine up until today when it didnt want to showtime this morning. When I turned the key (common cold start) it started and turned over a few times before I gave it a lilliputian touch on the gas pedal to help it stay running then a small-scale pop happend nether the hood and it died. all it does now is go on turning over and over and acts like it wants to beginning just wont. It smelled flooded and so I waited an hour and tried again, but information technology still wont start and smelled flooded over again without even touching the gas. I idea it was the choke at first and held it open up only that wasnt information technology, It leaves me to think its the timing? and if it is how can the timing all of a sudden change like that just overnight since I drove it last night? 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: iv Joined: April ii, 2010 Local Fourth dimension: 5:29 PM Yep I checked by putting the exposed metal of the spark plug wire to the manifold and in that location wasnt any spark. jimmyray Well-Known Member Messages: 933 Likes Received: 12 Joined: Jul 17, 2007 Local Time: 7:29 PM If timing jumped, it would likely spit dorsum, backfire, or at least burn down occasionally. With the ignition in the run position, bank check for ability at the coil (multimeter between the positive pole on coil and ground on body). No power, y'all may have popped the ballast resistor. If you have power, you may have a bad gyre. jimmyray Well-Known Member Messages: 933 Likes Received: 12 Joined: Jul 17, 2007 Local Time: 7:29 PM If it jumped timing, y'all would almost probable get spark. Bank check ballast resitior, curlicue, etc. Do y'all accept a multi-meter? jimmyray Well-Known Member Messages: 933 Likes Received: 12 Joined: Jul 17, 2007 Local Time: 7:29 PM 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Letters: 130 Likes Received: four Joined: Apr 2, 2010 Local Time: 5:29 PM I dont have annihilation to check what is getting power and what isnt, which is why I but checked by putting the wire to the manifold. I did notice the last few times I started it when the motor would wind down id hear a soft hissing racket that wasnt there before similar theres some kind of air leak somewhere. The ballast resistor was replaced when the dist. was less than 2 years ago, the coil was the but thing that hasnt been replaced because it was tested the same equally a new one. jimmyray Well-Known Fellow member Messages: 933 Likes Received: 12 Joined: Jul 17, 2007 Local Time: seven:29 PM If you accept a harbor freight nearby, the inexpensive red digital multimeter is but $4.99, sometimes equally low as one.99. Invaluable for diagnostics like this. krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Fellow member How-To Department Editor Try pulling the center coil wire from the dist and have someone crank it over while yous concur the end of the whorl wire near the intake manifold to look for spark. This volition tell you if you are getting spark out of the coil. If no spark, chances are your ballast went bad. If you inundation the machine while trying to start, at that place is no demand to wait for an hour. Just put the gas pedal to the floor, and hold it there while y'all keep cranking information technology. The excess gas will get pulled through the motor until information technology is lean enough to start. By holding the pedal to the floor, no more gas will get through and the throttle plates volition be open up allowing any excess gas to evaporate or get through the engine. A flooded engine will be able to be started this fashion within 1 to two minutes of cranking. Remember to allow the starter to rest after 30 sec of cranking so you don't burn down it out. Continue the pedal to the flooring while giving the starter time to rest/cool if necessary. If you get spark out of the center/primary roll wire, put that wire back in the benefactor. Gat a spare spark plug and disconnect any other wire from the spark plug and put the spare plug on the wire. Hold the bottom electrode of the spare plug to a ground/intake and look for spark. If you go a skilful spark, then possibly your timing is off or y'all are not getting gas. Bank check for gas by stroking the gas pedal a few times and looking for gas to squirt down the carburetor. If yous get gas, spark, and air, the engine should start. If you are getting all iii and no starting time, your timing may exist also far out, check your benefactor. Put the engine at TDC and line up the rotor with that detail spark plug wire on the distributor and try cranking information technology over. Try advancing the distributor a piffling at a time until it starts and and so reset timing with a timing calorie-free when started. Do you have points or electronic distributor. Could your points take gone bad/ out of adjustment. For electronic benefactor cheque the reluctor gap in the benefactor and gap to spec (about .007" - .010" verify spec). I had an electronic dist where the reluctor gap was .030 and it wouldn't start when warm, but cold. after putting reluctor gap to spec it ran fine. My initial instinct from your information, I would check the anchor resistor. krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gilded Member How-To Section Editor How fresh is the engine? How many miles? Was information technology rebuilt? How many miles on rebuild? What kind of timing concatenation? Original or double roller? The cam gear teeth on the original nylon timing gears scrap hands and can and then jump timing easy when the engines get over 60k miles. A double roller with metal gears is much more reliable/robust than the inexpensive unmarried row stock chain. 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Letters: 130 Likes Received: 4 Joined: Apr 2, 2010 Local Time: 5:29 PM I got pleanty of spark from the scroll, just tested it. every bit for the remainder of the stuff you told me to practise, its gotten too nighttime and sick go along tomorrow. merely when I tested it from the sparkplug wire, there wasnt any spark. its getting gas as well. ill check the points starting time affair in the morning. 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: 4 Joined: April 2, 2010 Local Time: v:29 PM The motor was rebuilt with about 3K miles. Im not sure whether information technology has a single roller or double. But a maybe. My ex-73 dart Sport was doing this to me five years agone. I had a vacum leak once and another time the vacum advance hose was loose and had a leak.Check all your plug wires at the benefactor, brand certain the terminals are snapping in as sometimes this may go effect. Same at plugs just virtually of the time at distributor. 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Letters: 130 Likes Received: 4 Joined: Apr two, 2010 Local Time: 5:29 PM Well I constitute out what the trouble was after finding out that I did in fact have spark all the way to my plug wires. When I finally decided to take off a spark plug it had a thick wet night gold color on both sides of the motor covering the spark plugs... 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: 4 Joined: Apr two, 2010 Local Time: 5:29 PM It was towed to the store for further investigation since I dont have the time to mess with it. Its under warranty anyway and then all labor and parts are free. jimmyray Well-Known Member Messages: 933 Likes Received: 12 Joined: Jul 17, 2007 Local Time: seven:29 PM Do let the states know what the "thick wet dark gold color" turns out to be! 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: iv Joined: April 2, 2010 Local Fourth dimension: v:29 PM Ill be sure to, im really curious myself.. 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: 4 Joined: Apr 2, 2010 Local Time: 5:29 PM I got a call from the shop and the motor had antifreeze throughout the cylinders, although hes non certain where it got in from yet, I should know by tomorrow afternoon or evening. Im assuming thats what was all over the plugs. Worst instance senarial ill have a new 318 under the hood, wish I had the actress cash to just put in a 360 instead, but the 318 would be free so lol jimmyray Well-Known Member Messages: 933 Likes Received: 12 Joined: Jul 17, 2007 Local Time: 7:29 PM Odd. Leaking head gaskets? 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: 4 Joined: Apr 2, 2010 Local Time: v:29 PM It was leaking in through the intake manifold. In that location is something wrong with the manifold and it needs a new one. Im thinking instead of simply getting another 2bbl manifold to just upgrade to a 4bbl. I take a used 4bbl carb that sick be asking questions about in some other thread. 72DartCustom Well-Known Member Messages: 130 Likes Received: 4 Joined: Apr 2, 2010 Local Time: 5:29 PM the edelbrock intake manifold, Holley 600cfm 4bbl carb and air cleaner I ordered came in a day or two ago and I finished putting them on the dart. It runs soo much amend now, smoother than it ever has, the former manifold must take been croaky for some time because this car never ran as smooth equally this. Much nicer with the electric asphyxiate.. A LOT more go up and go likewise.. 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The 318 in my 72 dart ran fine up until today when it didnt want to showtime this morning. When I turned the key (common cold start) it started and turned over a few times before I gave it a lilliputian touch on the gas pedal to help it stay running then a small-scale pop happend nether the hood and it died. all it does now is go on turning over and over and acts like it wants to beginning just wont. It smelled flooded and so I waited an hour and tried again, but information technology still wont start and smelled flooded over again without even touching the gas. I idea it was the choke at first and held it open up only that wasnt information technology, It leaves me to think its the timing? and if it is how can the timing all of a sudden change like that just overnight since I drove it last night?
Yep I checked by putting the exposed metal of the spark plug wire to the manifold and in that location wasnt any spark.
If timing jumped, it would likely spit dorsum, backfire, or at least burn down occasionally. With the ignition in the run position, bank check for ability at the coil (multimeter between the positive pole on coil and ground on body). No power, y'all may have popped the ballast resistor. If you have power, you may have a bad gyre.
If it jumped timing, y'all would almost probable get spark. Bank check ballast resitior, curlicue, etc. Do y'all accept a multi-meter?
I dont have annihilation to check what is getting power and what isnt, which is why I but checked by putting the wire to the manifold. I did notice the last few times I started it when the motor would wind down id hear a soft hissing racket that wasnt there before similar theres some kind of air leak somewhere. The ballast resistor was replaced when the dist. was less than 2 years ago, the coil was the but thing that hasnt been replaced because it was tested the same equally a new one.
If you accept a harbor freight nearby, the inexpensive red digital multimeter is but $4.99, sometimes equally low as one.99. Invaluable for diagnostics like this.
Try pulling the center coil wire from the dist and have someone crank it over while yous concur the end of the whorl wire near the intake manifold to look for spark. This volition tell you if you are getting spark out of the coil. If no spark, chances are your ballast went bad. If you inundation the machine while trying to start, at that place is no demand to wait for an hour. Just put the gas pedal to the floor, and hold it there while y'all keep cranking information technology. The excess gas will get pulled through the motor until information technology is lean enough to start. By holding the pedal to the floor, no more gas will get through and the throttle plates volition be open up allowing any excess gas to evaporate or get through the engine. A flooded engine will be able to be started this fashion within 1 to two minutes of cranking. Remember to allow the starter to rest after 30 sec of cranking so you don't burn down it out. Continue the pedal to the flooring while giving the starter time to rest/cool if necessary. If you get spark out of the center/primary roll wire, put that wire back in the benefactor. Gat a spare spark plug and disconnect any other wire from the spark plug and put the spare plug on the wire. Hold the bottom electrode of the spare plug to a ground/intake and look for spark. If you go a skilful spark, then possibly your timing is off or y'all are not getting gas. Bank check for gas by stroking the gas pedal a few times and looking for gas to squirt down the carburetor. If yous get gas, spark, and air, the engine should start. If you are getting all iii and no starting time, your timing may exist also far out, check your benefactor. Put the engine at TDC and line up the rotor with that detail spark plug wire on the distributor and try cranking information technology over. Try advancing the distributor a piffling at a time until it starts and and so reset timing with a timing calorie-free when started. Do you have points or electronic distributor. Could your points take gone bad/ out of adjustment. For electronic benefactor cheque the reluctor gap in the benefactor and gap to spec (about .007" - .010" verify spec). I had an electronic dist where the reluctor gap was .030 and it wouldn't start when warm, but cold. after putting reluctor gap to spec it ran fine. My initial instinct from your information, I would check the anchor resistor.
How fresh is the engine? How many miles? Was information technology rebuilt? How many miles on rebuild? What kind of timing concatenation? Original or double roller? The cam gear teeth on the original nylon timing gears scrap hands and can and then jump timing easy when the engines get over 60k miles. A double roller with metal gears is much more reliable/robust than the inexpensive unmarried row stock chain.
I got pleanty of spark from the scroll, just tested it. every bit for the remainder of the stuff you told me to practise, its gotten too nighttime and sick go along tomorrow. merely when I tested it from the sparkplug wire, there wasnt any spark. its getting gas as well. ill check the points starting time affair in the morning.
The motor was rebuilt with about 3K miles. Im not sure whether information technology has a single roller or double.
But a maybe. My ex-73 dart Sport was doing this to me five years agone. I had a vacum leak once and another time the vacum advance hose was loose and had a leak.Check all your plug wires at the benefactor, brand certain the terminals are snapping in as sometimes this may go effect. Same at plugs just virtually of the time at distributor.
Well I constitute out what the trouble was after finding out that I did in fact have spark all the way to my plug wires. When I finally decided to take off a spark plug it had a thick wet night gold color on both sides of the motor covering the spark plugs...
It was towed to the store for further investigation since I dont have the time to mess with it. Its under warranty anyway and then all labor and parts are free.
I got a call from the shop and the motor had antifreeze throughout the cylinders, although hes non certain where it got in from yet, I should know by tomorrow afternoon or evening. Im assuming thats what was all over the plugs. Worst instance senarial ill have a new 318 under the hood, wish I had the actress cash to just put in a 360 instead, but the 318 would be free so lol
It was leaking in through the intake manifold. In that location is something wrong with the manifold and it needs a new one. Im thinking instead of simply getting another 2bbl manifold to just upgrade to a 4bbl. I take a used 4bbl carb that sick be asking questions about in some other thread.
the edelbrock intake manifold, Holley 600cfm 4bbl carb and air cleaner I ordered came in a day or two ago and I finished putting them on the dart. It runs soo much amend now, smoother than it ever has, the former manifold must take been croaky for some time because this car never ran as smooth equally this. Much nicer with the electric asphyxiate.. A LOT more go up and go likewise..
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